The End of Trend
By Deborah Needleman
- Article originally published in T Magazine, The New York Times Style Magazine -
A photograph triptych by the artist Floris Neusüss. Courtesy of the artist and Von Lintel Gallery
Typically, fashion editors sit at shows seeking out common threads or ideas to bring back to their offices and translate into fashion spreads that tell us what we ought to be wearing that season. This service is what you might think that we, at T, are here to provide. But times have changed. Technology and the economics of fashion have overthrown the old hegemony in which what was fashionable was proposed by designers, decreed by editors and proselytized for by department stores.
We live in what appears to be a post-trend fashion world — with no clear guidelines for our sartorial choices and an endless array of options. New shows and collections seem to be springing up constantly throughout the year, consumed hungrily and instantaneously around the world on a variety of platforms before the editors have even filed out the doors. So inundated are we with images that we’d be bored to tears with any single trend by the time it hit stores.
The solution is to rely on our own instincts, which is something that many of the women featured in this issue — musicians, writers, artists, Bjork! — have in common: an ability to filter myriad influences to create an unmistakably personal voice.
All of which is not to say that we do not feature fashion in this issue. Of course we do. But the shoots in these pages reflect the things we liked best in the shows, which, far from adding up to a clear statement for the season, are remarkably distinct and disparate: more denim than you’ve seen since the ’70s; clothes influenced by the world of sports; good-girl lace paired with bad-girl leather; Poppy floral prints worn with military jackets; and luxury pieces with a handmade, artisanal edge. Is choice overwhelming? Yes. But the freedom to dress how you like, in clothes that suit your body and reflect your tastes, is well worth exercising.